Text and photography by Len Boccassini
| It is one thing to sit within the controlled atmosphere of a restaurant and enjoy the dishes put forth by a chef who is masterful at weaving the essence of flavorful ingredients into a unique tapestry of delicious composition. It is quite another to be invited into that chef's inner sanctum and offered a firsthand glimpse into the magical transformation that takes place as a mere idea is shaped and developed into a delectable masterpiece. It is an experience not unlike witnessing John Lennon putting the finishing touches on his anthem to a generation, "Imagine", or perhaps, McCartney penning the lyrics his timeless classic, "Let It Be". Okay, perhaps it doesn't approach the magnitude of either of those compositional milestones, but I am sure you get my point. Having the opportunity to watch an artist walk the path of trial and error without the security of a safety net is a rare opportunity indeed. To watch a dish prepared from concept to creation is a special privilege and one that is an infrequent occurrence. |  |
Yet, that is exactly the experience Chef Hank Barrett provided us before his recent departure from Sangria Modern Spaniard Cuisine in Mahwah for La Griglia in Kenilworth, NJ. The dish, he explained, would be a culmination of his formal training and his love of Modern Spanish cuisine.
To understand the origin of Chef Barrett's penchant, and remarkable talent, for Modern Spanish cuisine, we must travel back almost twenty-two years to the latter part of 1993. While working as a line cook at Le Chanticleer Restaurant on Nantucket, the summer had come to a end and with it, Chef Barrett's steady work. Rather than toil at yet another meaningless winter job close to home, Hank decided to be a bit more adventuresome. Always thirsty to expand his culinary horizons, he decided to try his luck at obtaining seasonal work abroad in Spain.
He arrived in Barcelona and was at once, struck by a sphere of culinary influence he had never expected. It was his first experience with Spanish cuisine and the impression it left upon the young chef was one to stick with him for the rest of his days. Unfortunately, Barrett's search for seasonal work proved fruitless, but even so, he was determined to make every minute of the trip worthwhile, and take from it, experiences that would play to his strengths for the remainder of his career.
To understand the origin of Chef Barrett's penchant, and remarkable talent, for Modern Spanish cuisine, we must travel back almost twenty-two years to the latter part of 1993. While working as a line cook at Le Chanticleer Restaurant on Nantucket, the summer had come to a end and with it, Chef Barrett's steady work. Rather than toil at yet another meaningless winter job close to home, Hank decided to be a bit more adventuresome. Always thirsty to expand his culinary horizons, he decided to try his luck at obtaining seasonal work abroad in Spain.
He arrived in Barcelona and was at once, struck by a sphere of culinary influence he had never expected. It was his first experience with Spanish cuisine and the impression it left upon the young chef was one to stick with him for the rest of his days. Unfortunately, Barrett's search for seasonal work proved fruitless, but even so, he was determined to make every minute of the trip worthwhile, and take from it, experiences that would play to his strengths for the remainder of his career.
Instead of merely bounding from place to place with no particular destination in mind, he immersed himself within Spain's culinary culture. He dined at some Barcelona's top restaurants - El Quim De La Boqueria being one of his favorites - and sought clues to what made these young Spanish chefs so innovative. He woke up each morning and headed to the market to gain insight into the finest local ingredients, produce and seafood. He roamed Costa Brava (the North Coast) in search of new and progressive takes on seafood preparation. At the conclusion of his trip, Chef Barrett returned home with an entirely new culinary thought process than he left with three months earlier. His mind overflowed with ideas and his techniques evolved, and today, that trip to Barcelona remains arguably the single most influential period of his professional life.
A New Dish: From Concept to Creation
One afternoon, Chef Barrett related to us he had a thought for a new dish. When I asked what it was, he smiled and said, "Come on, I'll show you."
As we stepped into the kitchen I prodded with a gentle, " So what is it?"
"Well, I've got some great ingredients and I've got this idea," he implied with a smirk. "Ever have Foie Gras?"
As we stepped into the kitchen I prodded with a gentle, " So what is it?"
"Well, I've got some great ingredients and I've got this idea," he implied with a smirk. "Ever have Foie Gras?"
Before I could offer an answer, he began seasoning the foie gras, explaining the essence of each ingredient he was utilizing. The "smoked salt," he explained is made in-house and adds a sultry depth of smokiness to the dish. He described his every motion and rationale for doing so as if he were just talking aloud and at no one in particular. I still had a few questions, but the deftness with which he moved about the kitchen was astounding and I thought better of interrupting with some amateurish disruption. Instead, I grabbed my camera and began snapping away, mesmerized by his kitchen agility.
In the blink of an eye, Chef Barrett had the seared foie gras in the oven and had prepped two quails and placed them on the stove top beside a pan of onion and plums that were caramelizing. To be frank, I was somewhat overwhelmed by the sights, smells and intensity that filled the room and the continuous cooking instructions that emanated from Chef Barrett's lips as he spun about the kitchen. I am no stranger to the kitchen, but this display was pure art in motion. He did mention something about cherries in Brandy imported from Spain, but I'll be darned if I can remember. My senses were besieged by the culinary high-wire act that was playing out before my eyes.
Somewhere between the seasoning of the foie gras and the bliss of my first taste, the dish that began as nothing more than a simple idea earlier that day came together as one of the finest meals I have ever been served. I remember how a real sense of pride crossed Chef Barrett's face as he proudly held out two plates and declared, "Pan-roasted Quail and Foie Gras, Chorizo and Caramelized onions and Plums."
I was impressed by the talent that was on display that day in Chef Barrett's kitchen, but I am equally impressed by how much this man loves what he does. Creating food is in his blood and not merely his vocation. We should all be so lucky. That afternoon, I had watched a culinary maestro conduct an edible symphony, and for that I was grateful. Perhaps, in retrospect, Lennon & McCartney is not such a stretch after all.
I was impressed by the talent that was on display that day in Chef Barrett's kitchen, but I am equally impressed by how much this man loves what he does. Creating food is in his blood and not merely his vocation. We should all be so lucky. That afternoon, I had watched a culinary maestro conduct an edible symphony, and for that I was grateful. Perhaps, in retrospect, Lennon & McCartney is not such a stretch after all.
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